Tuesday 14 August 2012

Ödon Lechner

Probably this brilliant architect is not much known outside of Hungary, but if you've ever been to Budapest or Bratislava, have a certain taste for Art Nouveau (or just beauty) and have run into any of his works, you sure will have him added to your list of most astonishing creators of beauty. He's probably the most praised Hungarian secesionist (Art Nouveau, Jugendstil... you know) and earned himself to be known as "the Hungarian Gaudí".

I knew of him because of Bratislava's Blue Church, so before visiting Budapest last June I added to my ToDo List paying a visit to some of his works there.
I have to admit that my first encounter with one of Ödon's creatures was unplanned. I was indulging myself in some aimless wandering around Pest when a dreamlike green and golden roof some blocks away caught my attention. It was the Postal Savings Bank. The facade is gorgeous, but it's the fairy tale roof what really stands out for me. Indeed, I think I'd never realized before this how astonishing beautiful a roof can be. I've ever loved onion domes, and living in a city where we haven't had a decent snow cover in more than 20 years... it's easy to understand how charming I find any kind of steep-slope roof (and more if it's a slate one, like for example these in Namur). The mosaic roofs relatively common in Hungary had already amazed me my first time there, but this artist knew how to take it to the next level.

The following day it was time for a visit to one of his most famous buildings, The Geological Institute. Unfortunately, I had to abandon the idea when I was already on my way to it. After getting off the Metro at the beautiful Keleti station, I began my stroll along an avenue flanked by old, dark, nice, worn out buildings. I was already short of time, and if we add to it my continuous stops to take one pic after another, and the 35 degrees that we were suffering... I ended up going back on my steps and heading for something different... so this should go first in my list for the next time I'm lucky enough to be in Budapest

The next day, after a nice stroll along Raday utca and surroundings I made my way to the lovely Museum of Applied Arts. Once again, the green, mosaic roof stands out beautifully, but another element that I pretty much appreciated is a certain neo-gothic feeling that I think is mainly due to those elongated windows. I had a busy agenda for that day, and it didn't seem worth to me to pay for a ticket to spend time viewing the collection, so I just stood for a while at the entrance marvelled by the organic, imaginative lamps and handrails. Sure another must see.

While preparing this post I found this excellent blog about Art Nouveau, check it!

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